Ok, this wasn’t a real hobby or any real attempt to be seriously good at it. It isn’t anywhere an Olympic event either but I did try it, so I guess it qualifies.
I did it on a trip to Australia in 2001. The real reason for going was to watch the Lions rugby tour. My mate Rosie and I had been contemplating going to see the Lions play for years but had never managed it. To be honest our track record of supporting England had been so abismal that it was probably a good job. This time though, one of my University mates, Wyn (or Hoop), was out living in Sydney so we had a good chance to wangle tickets. There was no guarantee we would get any but we decided to take the chance and book flights and make a holiday out of it.
The loose plan was to fly to Sydney to watch the third and final test, then do some travelling around. Hoop was being a trooper and doing his best to get us tickets, so we felt pretty confident we’d be sorted when we got there. Sure enough, we landed on the morning of the test match and Hoop confirmed he’d got us in. Result. The series was tied at one each, so this was a decider. It was perfect. Hoop had actually followed the whole tour and had had an amazing time with the rest of the travelling fans.
We arrived in Sydney around lunchtime after booking in to our hostel in Kings Cross (familiar stomping ground for backpackers). The city was full of Lions supporters wearing the red replica shirts. The atmosphere was fantastic. Everyone wanted to get in to the ground and the fans were in fine voice in all of the pubs. We had a few pints before heading to the Olympic stadium on the train singing all of the home nations anthems on the way.
For the game itself we were right at the back, high up in the gods. The view was great though. It felt like a home game. There were so many Lions fans in the stadium that the Australian rugby football Union handed out yellow scarves to the home supporters to try and even up the crowd. From start to finish there was singing, the Aussies were drowned out.
Even though it was a great game, the Lions lost. Our track record of being unlucky supporters remained intact. After the match, the atmosphere quickly changed as the Aussies turned out to celebrate and gloat. Fair enough. I think we would have done the same if the roles had been reversed.
Completely jet lagged and hammered, Rosie and I skulked back to our hostel around 2am to get some kip. We didn’t wake up until 5pm the next afternoon. Parched, Rosie woke up and headed out of the hostel to get some water and got propositioned by a prostitute. On being offered a blow job, Rosie spluttered ‘I just want some water!’.
We eventually made it out around 8pm and headed off for a curry and some more beers (as you do in Sydney). Thus followed several days of the same routine before we were joined by my partner at the time and caught a plane up to Cairns to see the Great Barrier Reef. Before making the trip I had heard from a friend on a marketing course I was on that their Aunt and Uncle were trip organisers in Cairns. I was reliably informed that they would sort us out with a ‘mates rates’ scuba diving excursion. Sure enough they duly obliged and we got booked up with a company run by an American guy. This was a two day trip involving a series of day dives and an optional night dive. Sounded good to us.
I didn’t actually realise that you weren’t supposed to do this kind of thing unless you are PADI qualified. The crew didn’t seem too bothered about any of that so we weren’t either (it wasn’t until later on that we found out that the ‘American’ was heavily frowned upon by all of the other companies for his lax approach to safety. Useful information in hindsight of course). We got a quick introduction to the basics of using scuba diving gear and ‘equalising’ to relieve the pressure in your ears by holding your nose and blowing. We were also told to give an ‘OK’ single with our fingers and thumbs rather than thumbs up (this would mean we wanted to go back up to the surface). Armed with this paper thin knowledge we embarked on our diving adventure.
It was great. As we were complete novices, we got assigned an instructor who was with us all of the time. This turned out perfect as he was able to show us all of the best things in the reef we were diving on. The sea life was incredible. The water was crystal clear with so many brightly coloured fish to see. The highlight was a well known fish called Sam, who was a Great Maori Wrasse that was about 50 years old and had a peg tooth. It was so tame that you could swim up to it and give it a cuddle. If you put your hand over its nose it would swim upwards in to it. It was like swimming underwater with a pet dog.
We decided to give the night dive a go too. Looking back I’m not sure this was the cleverest move given how inexperienced we were but it felt like too good an opportunity to miss. Our instructor reassured us that it was perfectly safe. All we had to do was follow his lead and we’d be fine. He did forewarn us that our underwater torches would act as food detectors for some fish that would be swimming behind us. What he didn’t mention was how big they were. A few minutes in to the dive my torch shone on some colourful fish and two massive Great Trevallies shot past to chase them. They were about six feet long and looked prehistoric. I didn’t quite mess my swim shorts, but it was close.
The rest of the dive was largely uneventful apart from seeing a whole array of different sea creatures. A completely different set of animals come out at night, including puffer fish, fish that sleep in bubbles and other amazing sights.
After getting out we were getting our gear off when we heard some noise from the side of the boat. We saw some of the crew throwing food in to the water. Taking a closer look we leaned over the side and saw what they were feeding. About half a dozen Bronze Whaler sharks. They were huge. They must have been about eight foot long and they were ripping the food to bits. Think Jaws food frenzy. Safe to swim at night, my ass.
That night we slept on the boat and then got up early for the next dive at sunrise feeling slightly less confident in the safety of our adventure. However, we needn’t have worried. It was just as stunning. It might not have been in accordance with recommended diving etiquette but I’m so glad we did it. It was definitely the highlight of the holiday. To have experienced the reef so close was incredible. I’m sure there are lots of ecological reasons not do it as the amount of tourism can only be damaging to the coral but it’s an experience I’ll never forget.
After that we did a few other trips including a two day stay in Cape Tribulation. We stayed in wooden huts next to a a white sand beach. As with many parts of Australia there were all manner of animals lurking about. We saw a Kimono dragon who lived underneath one of the huts. Perfectly harmless apparently, all ten feet of it. Salt water crocodiles swam in the water and we were told to look out for spiders in our huts. Just an average day in Oz.
The whole holiday was 3 weeks in total. We spent a few more days in Sydney when we flew back from Cairns. We took in the Blue Mountains and Bondai beach before we got back on the plane home. It was a great trip and it was good to do it on the fly by staying in hostels. I never got round to doing a gap year like some of my mates did so it gave me a little flavour of it. I kind of wish I’d done it looking back. I did my year in France for my third year at Uni so I suppose that was my version of it (but with less hostel beds and more showers).
I’ve never done scuba diving since. Not sure I could top the Great Barrier Reef anyway and scuba diving in the UK seems to involve jumping in to zero visibility quarry water. Er, no thanks. I’ll stick to normal open water swimming in zero visibility instead.
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